week 4, katie moore visit

Katie Moore is a internationally published make up artist and hair stylist who specialised in the fashion field. She is known for her passion for her creativity and professionalism since gaining a first class BA honours degree in make- up artistry. Katie has worked with multiple celebrities and influential individuals resulting in her work being published in Vogue, Cosmopolitan, CQ and plenty more! Katie has worked alongside Toni and Guy

(Katie Moore Makeup Artist, 2017)
https://www.katiemooremua.co.uk/- here is a link to Katies website, on here you can find portfolio work, contact information and katies bio!

Today at salford university we had a guest speaker who Is currently in the fashion industry come in to demonstrate a make up look ( beauty and editorial) to suit black and white photography.

This is a small video if Katie's set up, as you can see I have captured all of the kit essentials but first what make up look are we creating?

figure 1. (Katie moore beauty look, 2017)

Katie Moore created this Beauty Make Up look for London Hairdresser of the year 2016, Luke Benson. We are using this as our brief for the first look and to help us academically Katie talked to us about applying make up for black and white photography. I am now going to complete a step by step of the make up look created

Beauty Look Step by step

Step 1- start by cleansing the whole face with bio derma, this is a cleansing water infused with oils so it is not heavily fragranced and great for all skin types especially sensitive. Apply Embryolisse to hydrate the whole of the face

Step 2-  apply Illamasqua primer to the whole of the eye lid and face

Step 3 – mattify and set the eye with a warm toned MAC pre-made palette. Start by applying a neutral colour at the lash line and blend up towards the crease

Step 4 – using contour techniques apply a soft brown into the crease of the eye with a rounded fluffy brush

Step 5 – using a darker brown shadow from the MAC palette apply this to the edges of the eyes and blend it out using a clean fluffy brush in circular motions

Step 6- apply a white shadow to the inner corner of the eyes to make them appear wider, get your client to look up as this opens the awkward area

Step 7- using the same dark brown eyeshadow (in step 5) apply this to the centre of the lower lash line to create the illusion of a casted shadow, black can also be used

Step 8- apply white eye liner to the waterline

Step 9 – using a wipe clean up the under-eye e.g. any fall out

Step 10 – colour correct in areas if need be, using a flat brush apply Nars sheer glow to the centre of the face and blend out ensuring the layers are not cakey and do not gather in the hair line

Step 11- set the foundation with a translucent powder

Step 12- apply a matt bronzing powder to the zygomatic bone ensuring soft edges

Step 13- apply black mascara to the lashes

Step 14 – fill in the natural brow using Mac pencil, shade spike (do not overdraw or perfectly carve out)

Step 15 – line the lips with a Illamasqua pencil and fill in the lips with a natural nude lipstick

Tips and consideration for photoshoots:

•  Use a blue powder to enhance the zygomatic bone, take a picture in mono and you will see it enhances depth of shadow (appears darker than a black shadow)
•  When creating a look for black and white photography ensure that the image can successfully be transferred to colour in case there is a change within brief
• Try and make your kit bag as light as possible. You want to have products that are adaptable (can do multiple things) gel liner can be great for creating sharp or delicate wings and can also be used as a base for black eye makeup.
• If you were to work on an editorial shoot to get the best pigment pay off for a black Smokey eye you would need to consider preparation. Usually In most make up looks Make Up Artists use an ultra-light concealer or eye primer as a base, however if you were to do this when creating a black Smokey eye, you will find instead it is visually grey. Black and white mixed together makes grey there for you need a solid black base.
• Any gels should be set with a colour coordinated powder – this allows the make up to stick to the base, last longer and appear brighter.
• When working on catwalk you will likely be working on few models, your designs must compliment the collection and all your designs must have continuity throughout.
• You would have to consider your audience when applying make up for cat walk, everything is seen from a distance so application needs to be slightly heavier.
•  Make Up for Catwalk needs to last for a minimum of 7 hours, and touch ups will be required throughout. Primers are a great way to lock in any product.
• Avoid using glittery products when taking black and white images, they can show up gritty.
• Avoid any SPF products as they will produce flash back on final images

Editorial step by step

video 1. (make up removal tutorial, 2017)
Step 1 – begin by analysing your models skin type

Step 2 – remove any oils, make up etc. from the skin using cleanse tone and moisturise routine

Step 3 – take some shavings from a non-fragranced soap bar and mix it with water, using a disposable brush it through the brows ensuring they are flat

Step 4 – using patting motions press the concealer over the eye brows to block them out

Step 5 – apply a black gel liner close to the lash line and in the centre of the mobile lid as a base

Step 6 – blend out the gel liner using a black eye shadow, this enables the product to set and not transfer. When blending take the product up towards the brow bone and out towards the edges allowing a gradual fade (you should never be able to see where application starts and finishes)

Step 7 – Create depth using a black shadow in the inner corner and ensure the transition is intense. Using a fluffy brush pull the product slightly down and blende the edges

Step 8 – apply a black liner in the waterline and smudge black shadow under the lash line to connect the eye make up

Step 9 – dispose an appropriate amount of foundation and use a flat brush to apply it to the centre of the face

Step 10 – blend the product out ensuring the layers are not cakey and avoid any make up within the hair line. Be mindful of coverage on the neck and hands if these were to be in the shot

Step 11 – apply a translucent powder to the t zone and bronzer to the cheek bone

Step 12- line the lips with a sharpened red pencil following the natural lip line

Step 13- using small strokes and a delicate lip brush fill in the lips (stay within your guide)

Step 14 – to clean up the lips use a dry cotton bud and roller technique

*******RECREATION OF THE LOOK ******

EVALUATION











information bibliography:
Katie Moore class notes

Katie Moore Makeup Artist. (2017). Katie Moore Makeup Artist. [online] Available at: https://www.katiemooremua.co.uk/about [Accessed 6 May 2017].

Image bibliography:

figure 1. Katie moore beauty look. (2017). [image] Available at: https://www.katiemooremua.co.uk/beauty?lightbox=dataItem-ivmwpwfk [Accessed 6 May 2017].

Video reference:
video 1. make up removal tutorial. (2017). [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxU4jiIMguM [Accessed 6 May 2017].