Week 6 cat walk, A/W 2017

Hi guys! So today we are going to be learning all about cat walk, this page is going to include lots of information, mood boards with analysis, face charts and step by steps! so don't say you haven't been warned about the weighty post that lies ahead lol!

So straight in, known as catwalk or runway this is where the trends are created by the designer and fashion make up artist. A complete fashion look is created to sell clothes and every fashion show is covered extensively by the media. The shows are held three times a year, a main one being couture and the other two being pret-a- porter which basically means ready to wear. They each last for seven days and start in the city that never sleeps Newyork, followed by London, Paris and Milan (all major fashion capitals). There are usually three fashion shows a day at different venues.

Preparation and planning takes place three months before the show. the fashion make up artist has several meetings to attend, this will be with the designer to understand the creative concept. It is very often that designers and stylists will show the make up artist various aids they have used to inspire them while working on the collection. There may be scraps of fabric pictures, reference books, period or futuristic drawings - known as mood boards.

The fashion make-up artist will then demonstrate the make up ideas. When all has been agreed, the make up artist will then show the rest of the make up artistry team what to do (usually 4 other artists and hair hairstylists, plus three assistants.

On the day of the show the team start to get models ready at 4am to be ready by 10am. The same make up team will then rush to the next two shows to work for other designers. The fashion make up artists for top fashion designers often become well known in their own right through the exposure generated by the fashion editors who promote the shows in the media.

There are three essential qualities that fashion make up artists need for this type of work, they are;

• empathy of the designers style
• creativity and being able to devise new ideas
• the fast and confident application of make up

There are also four different kinds of catwalk make up styles which i am now going to visually show examples of.

Vogue 2017 autumn/ winter collection

Sophisticated / Glamorous:

• Choose a style that will be quick and effective concentrating on eyes, lips or both.
• eyes should be well defined, use highlighting and shading techniques to add dimension.
• blusher should be kept subtle unless otherwise specified
• for a more dramatic look use a foundation lighter than the skin tone, or a pearlised foundation
• black eye liner, false lashes and white pencil inside the lower lid are all techniques which make the eye appear larger and more defined.
• lips should be immaculate, especially when using a dark colour

Figure 1. (chanel, 2017)

raspberry lip shade

jacket is straight and lenient – 20s boyish shape

the black eye make up contrast's against the white to empower women.

similar eyes lips and both – eyes well defined, dimension is important because of distanced work, there for you must consider your audience

white pencil in waterline to widen eyes,

The skin tone is pale /cocktail effect. Personally to achieve this i would use face and body by MAC , (oil mixed with foundation gives dewy perlized look) – oil and water separate so consider foundation in advance as it would need touching up.

Avant garde/ fantasy

• Make up should co-ordinate with the overall theme of the fashion show; clothes, hairstyles and/or headdresses together with the colours used should be take into consideration
• the design should be strong and visually effective; aqua colours and liquid eye shadows are excellent products as they are easy to apply and can easily be removed for quick changes
• glitter, sequins and crystals can be incorporated into the make up design for a eye catching look

figure 2. (Balmain fall/winter, 2017)

soft and natural

• For some spring/ summer fashion shows a natural bronzed look may be required
• while this make up may be of a softer look some definition is still needed on the eyes lips and cheeks
• make use of shimmery pearlised products to create areas of highlight and shadow

figure 3. (Miu Miu collection, look 22, 2017)

there is a metallic shine so i think cream products have been used for a minimal coverage

the skirt reminds me of the 60s era

the shoulders scream 80s as they wore manufactured suits (padded shoulders)

collection has interplay with make up, fur texture is represented in natural applied make up (really blended)

the peaches and brown colours within the clothing have been used within the make up (contouring)

this look fits the natural theme as the colours used are neutral e.g the lips

Basic rules for cat walk make up;

• Speed - it is the utmost important (10- 20minutes max per model), concentrate more on eyes and mouth for maximum effect
• the principal of highlighting and shading- theatrical style of lighting may be used which will soften approximately one third the strengths of make up.( always ask about the lighting when working on catwalk as this has huge interplay with the make up) get used to fashion brows and out with the perfect calved p.lousie style - go for a tailored look and don't feel obliged to use a product due to visibility e.g use a brow gel
• the make up should be versatile enough to allow quick and effective change if required. remember this make up must last for 7 hours under difficulty conditions such as: hot lights, seven changes of hairstyles and many changes of clothes. Continuity is important so all designs must marry together to best represent a collection
• be savvy with designs and use additional media such as sequins, metallic paper and gems, pre make any lashes etc. adhesives can be used such as ; eye lash glue, Vaseline, spirit gum, latex however you would have to consider patch testing to use some of these products.
• work with your team member to dress the models and fix any issues as you are all working towards the same goal

figure 4.  (Christian Dior Spring 2004 Couture, 2017)

Pat McGrath is arguably the most sought after catwalk make up artist around, creating some of the most fascinating fashion week beauty looks of very season. A regular at shows from Dolce & Gabbana to Versace. Pat McGrath is known for her use of embellishments when working on catwalk in 2004 for Dior. She created this amazing Egyptian look which looks strong and intense but really quick. Additional media saves so much time and virtually makes up this look and all this look consists of make up wise is a blue eyeshadow base, glitter and foundation application.

Tutor gold leaf demo:

Demo for gold leaf ; can be wxpensive , purchase in hobby craft , delicate and tears , small squares of foil

Gold leaf as shadow , silver , copper

Use Vaseline with gold leaf, skin has to be tacky so apply lip gloss , needs something to grip too

Photography lights be cautious so can use Mac fix plus to adhere but for cat walk Vaseline is fine, cant avoid it splitting and crackling , cant powder over the skin , warmth of skin makes it tear , can use , lifts on edges when opening and closing , sprinkle on hair for cat walk – with hairspray ,

Consider because it gold will suit undertones such as yellow , chanel did jewelled brows (black felt – sequins , patch test, what would do if allergic to latex, lash glue is perfect as it is already safe to use on the eye area.Layering of products, would I use foundation or not? Why? Brushes. Always have alternative products and ask models about allergies.

Step 1 – spatula to dispense Vaseline, flat brush pressing the product on to the eye lids

Step 2 –  cut or tear the gold leaf to the shape you wish to carry out on the eye

Step 3 – to manipulate the shape use pressing techniques when applying, especially along the edge to avoid lifting

Step 4 –  mix soap with water until it is a paste consistency, then use a disposable to push it through the brow. Soap allows the brow to harden/ flatten ( if you have course brows , use the other end of disposable to roll it through)

Step 5 - while the brows are drying we will apply a eye primer to the whole of the lid (urban decay HD)

Step 6- using a bronzing powder and a flat brush pat on the bronzer ( locate at the edge of the lash line up to the crease)

Step 7 – take a clear buffing brush and clean up/ blend your edges

Step 8 – small circular motions with your rounded brush applying a darker shade to the crease, giving the eye depth

Step 9- position the pre-made eye brows, latex or lash glue on the back in small amounts, wait for it to go tacky – spirit gum is not needed as they are light weight. Hold in place while the pre-made piece dries to get an accurate positioning and flat edges.

Removal of brow step by step:

Step 1 – cotton bud rolled into oil, cleanser or make up remover

Step 2-  use the cotton bud to lift the edge of the pre made brow, place the cotton bud flat and roll the cotton bud it in the same direction as the hair growth as this will avoid loosing any hairs.

Step 3- Repeat step 2 on the brow to remove the soap

information resource

week 6, blackboard - lecture notes

Images bibliography:

figure 1.  chanel. (2017). [image] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/ba/27/b4/ba27b449d46049dbd6c140f92c70b3c8.jpg [Accessed 7 May 2017].

figure 2. Balmain fall/winter. (2017). [image] Available at: https://vg-images.condecdn.net/image/kENDGdAbd1J/crop/200/square [Accessed 7 May 2017].

Figure 3. Miu Miu collection, look 22. (2017). [image] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/miu-miu/slideshow/collection#22 [Accessed 7 May 2017].

figure 4. Christian Dior Spring 2004 Couture. (2017). [image] Available at: http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/7f/43/b3/7f43b3abd4457002bc96622fd9aef021.jpg [Accessed 7 May 2017].